Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A hard start and a hard finish. Move left to the lower-off. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker 07/May/1989.
Ticklists
Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dan Browne | 9 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Straight up from the last bolt to the break seems like the favourite method | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Straight up from the last bolt to the break seems like the favourite method |
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| John Alcock | 26 Jan, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Guide lists 7 bolts. There were only 6. Has the top runner come out? There's an area of shattered rock where I would have expected it. As the others say, move left to belay at top and possibly take a Friend 1/12 or 2 for an extra runner. Bottom is well butch and moves past last bolt are hard too. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Guide lists 7 bolts. There were only 6. Has the top runner come out? There's an area of shattered rock where I would have expected it. As the others say, move left to belay at top and possibly take a Friend 1/12 or 2 for an extra runner. Bottom is well butch and moves past last bolt are hard too. |
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| Chris Shorter | 3 Sep, 2000 |
Show βeta
βeta: For those of you that remember what they are, there's a Friend 2 placement in the middle of the run-out to the belay. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: For those of you that remember what they are, there's a Friend 2 placement in the middle of the run-out to the belay. |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 15 Mar, 2000 |
Show βeta
βeta: It's not that run-out. The lower wall is also a bit tricky. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It's not that run-out. The lower wall is also a bit tricky. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South
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Burning Skies
Grade: 6c ***
(Blacknor Central)