Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the lower wall rightwards to a thin crack and climb this to the midway break. Pull up to a small ledge at the base of a wide groove and follow it with difficulty to the upper breaks. Swing left and up to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 28/May/1996.

Ticklists

Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Danos 1 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The foothold towards the top of the groove peeled off as I was doing this a couple of weeks ago - shouldn't affect the grade though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The foothold towards the top of the groove peeled off as I was doing this a couple of weeks ago - shouldn't affect the grade though.
Max factor 13 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with the comments re. tricky groove section- I couldn't do the move at all and it has been a long time since that has happened on a 6b+. Plus the cruz move is about 6 feet above a ledge that you are likely to hit if you fluff it. 6c something...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with the comments re. tricky groove section- I couldn't do the move at all and it has been a long time since that has happened on a 6b+. Plus the cruz move is about 6 feet above a ledge that you are likely to hit if you fluff it. 6c something...

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ultrasaurus

Grade: 6c ***
(Hidden Quarry)

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