Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Fine climbing with the crux in the final groove giving a sustained section of thin climbing. Low in the grade. Start below a cave at 3m and climb up passing it on its left. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Robertson 19/Apr/1998.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Guy Maccdox | 31 Aug, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Initially I climbed Babelicious Redhead by mistake. There is another route to the right - Chasing the Sun, 6c+ - not listed in the 2000 Rockfax, so it is an easy mistake if you simply count the lines of bolts). This could explain why some people find TTB veryeasy. It isn't remotely pumpy but is very thin. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Initially I climbed Babelicious Redhead by mistake. There is another route to the right - Chasing the Sun, 6c+ - not listed in the 2000 Rockfax, so it is an easy mistake if you simply count the lines of bolts). This could explain why some people find TTB veryeasy. It isn't remotely pumpy but is very thin. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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Riding to Babylon
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lulworth)