Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

19m.

Rockfax Description
Virtually a slab climb, although there is a roof at the top. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 06/Mar/1993.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon

Feedback

User Date Notes
Duncan Disorderly 27 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Bit dusty but good... Initially tried crux going right but seemed off route so reversed. Sequence that worked (and I believe is "the line" unless the FA says otherwise??) was: use slopey RH to get up into high undercut, feet up, RH into lowest part of shallow crack, cross LH into upper part of crack, RH to small slopey sidepull, feet up and into good holds... Felt about F6c but add the burly, awkward roof (lots of up and down for me) I'd not argue with F6c+...
Show beta
βeta: Bit dusty but good... Initially tried crux going right but seemed off route so reversed. Sequence that worked (and I believe is "the line" unless the FA says otherwise??) was: use slopey RH to get up into high undercut, feet up, RH into lowest part of shallow crack, cross LH into upper part of crack, RH to small slopey sidepull, feet up and into good holds... Felt about F6c but add the burly, awkward roof (lots of up and down for me) I'd not argue with F6c+...
matt perks 26 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The crux is tricky - I found it hard for F6c but possibly I'm just rubbish at slabby boulder-problems; the rest is straightforward. The lower-off (shared with Choc Speedway) is further left and slightly lower than shown on the topo - it seems a bit unlikely when you get there.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crux is tricky - I found it hard for F6c but possibly I'm just rubbish at slabby boulder-problems; the rest is straightforward. The lower-off (shared with Choc Speedway) is further left and slightly lower than shown on the topo - it seems a bit unlikely when you get there.
Rin C 17 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: ...well, except this one - a nice route on solid flowstone.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: ...well, except this one - a nice route on solid flowstone.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Man is an Island

Grade: 6c ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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