The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Takes a parallel line just left of One Fine Day, joining it briefly, before breaking out left on the headwall. Long quickdraws needed to avoid rope-drag. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Takes a parallel line just left of One Fine Day, joining it briefly, before breaking out left on the headwall. Long quickdraws and careful placing needed to avoid rope-drag. May feel adventurous. A long route; tie a knot in the free end of the rope. At the anchors, savour the ‘butterfly moment’.
FA. Mick Ward 20/Oct/2017.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Gazmataz | 19 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very loose rock 3/4 of the way up lots of holds breaking off | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very loose rock 3/4 of the way up lots of holds breaking off |
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Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor Central)