The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Pleasant climbing punctuated by some fairly tough moves. Start below a semi-circular cut-out above the first break. Climb to below the upper wall. Sustained climbing gains a small ledge from where one last blind move reaches easier ground. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 21/Aug/1988.
West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Jurassic 7a , Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist , Portland , The Portland Olympian Challenge (Pete and Butters's routes) , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , Portland Olympian , Portland scheming
User | Date | Notes | ||
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a_radiohead_fan | 9 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: first attempt at a 7a (more a trad fanatic really but kinda getting into the portland experience). got it onsight though i have read it is low in the grade. the crux certainly felt hard and actually was hard. excellent climbing all the way. was quite pumped after the crux and so everything after that felt pretty tough too. great route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: first attempt at a 7a (more a trad fanatic really but kinda getting into the portland experience). got it onsight though i have read it is low in the grade. the crux certainly felt hard and actually was hard. excellent climbing all the way. was quite pumped after the crux and so everything after that felt pretty tough too. great route. |
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richardh | 23 Mar, 2004 |
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βeta: Trend left at half height, very easy to end up on the top half of 'Through the Barricades' to the right, as I did. Good route(s) though. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Trend left at half height, very easy to end up on the top half of 'Through the Barricades' to the right, as I did. Good route(s) though. |
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Chris Shorter | 1 Oct, 2001 |
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βeta: The crux comes straight after a no-hands rest and is a stiff pull on a small hold, followed by a stretch for a jug. Post-crux, it's pretty sustained all the way to the top. Excellent. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The crux comes straight after a no-hands rest and is a stiff pull on a small hold, followed by a stretch for a jug. Post-crux, it's pretty sustained all the way to the top. Excellent. |
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Grade: 7a ***
(Coastguard North)