Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

28m.

Rockfax Description
Pleasant climbing punctuated by some fairly tough moves. Start below a semi-circular cut-out above the first break. Climb to below the upper wall. Sustained climbing gains a small ledge from where one last blind move reaches easier ground. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 21/Aug/1988.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Jurassic 7a , Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist , Portland , The Portland Olympian Challenge (Pete and Butters's routes) , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , Portland Olympian , Portland scheming

Feedback

User Date Notes
a_radiohead_fan 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: first attempt at a 7a (more a trad fanatic really but kinda getting into the portland experience). got it onsight though i have read it is low in the grade. the crux certainly felt hard and actually was hard. excellent climbing all the way. was quite pumped after the crux and so everything after that felt pretty tough too. great route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: first attempt at a 7a (more a trad fanatic really but kinda getting into the portland experience). got it onsight though i have read it is low in the grade. the crux certainly felt hard and actually was hard. excellent climbing all the way. was quite pumped after the crux and so everything after that felt pretty tough too. great route.
richardh 23 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Trend left at half height, very easy to end up on the top half of 'Through the Barricades' to the right, as I did. Good route(s) though.
Show beta
βeta: Trend left at half height, very easy to end up on the top half of 'Through the Barricades' to the right, as I did. Good route(s) though.
Chris Shorter 1 Oct, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: The crux comes straight after a no-hands rest and is a stiff pull on a small hold, followed by a stretch for a jug. Post-crux, it's pretty sustained all the way to the top. Excellent.
Show beta
βeta: The crux comes straight after a no-hands rest and is a stiff pull on a small hold, followed by a stretch for a jug. Post-crux, it's pretty sustained all the way to the top. Excellent.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Superfly Guy

Grade: 7a ***
(Coastguard North)

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