Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

16m.

Rockfax Description
The arete and slab to the right of the deep cleft has some dubious holds and at times is rather more mud than rock! © Rockfax

FA. Gorden Jenkin, Francis Haydn 16/Aug/1998.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Richard Horn 13 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fine if you like climbing mud.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fine if you like climbing mud.
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: one of the few routes hereabouts to deserve a bag symbol, utter crap
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: one of the few routes hereabouts to deserve a bag symbol, utter crap
A123 22 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: And one more little hold snapped off on the top section on my attempt (1st Nov 03). I'm just too heavy ! PS You should stay on route at the top, as the easier rock to the right is clearly loose. My second sent a large lump down at me when he opted for the less direct approach.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: And one more little hold snapped off on the top section on my attempt (1st Nov 03). I'm just too heavy ! PS You should stay on route at the top, as the easier rock to the right is clearly loose. My second sent a large lump down at me when he opted for the less direct approach.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Unseen Ripples of the Pebble

Grade: 6b ***
(Winspit)

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