Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

21m.

Rockfax Description
A well-regarded pitch that is both sustained and fingery. © Rockfax

FA. Nick White 07/Feb/1993.

Ticklists

Portland

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User Date Notes
Climber_Bill 18 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Good climbing spoiled by bad bolting and a seriously corroded 2nd bolt. Lower off "Onto the Ice Flow", extend 4th runner and then back 2nd bolt up with a long sling from 3rd bolt. Quite bouldery through the crux and then fairly easy to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good climbing spoiled by bad bolting and a seriously corroded 2nd bolt. Lower off "Onto the Ice Flow", extend 4th runner and then back 2nd bolt up with a long sling from 3rd bolt. Quite bouldery through the crux and then fairly easy to the top.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Esmeralda's Monkey

Grade: 7b ***
(Beeston Cliff)

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