Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

24m.

Rockfax Description
A worthwhile climb that gives some good wall climbing. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Ward 2002.

Ticklists

Portland , Sam and Jerome 2.0 (Portland Olympian)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor 29 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: First 8m are a bit dirty but after this the climbing is pretty good with sustained climbing to a final crux sequence.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First 8m are a bit dirty but after this the climbing is pretty good with sustained climbing to a final crux sequence.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Turned to Stone

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Blacknor South)

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