Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

28m.

Rockfax Description
Climb up the big crack to a foot-ledge. Continue over some flowstone bulges on undercuts and smears to a hard and reachy finish over the final bulge. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Golley Aug/2004.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gabbott987 9 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Filthy vertical shuffle up spiky shrubbery followed by really pleasant airy 7b+ climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Filthy vertical shuffle up spiky shrubbery followed by really pleasant airy 7b+ climbing
Climber_Bill 11 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing from 4th bolt. Solid 7b+. Could do with a fixed rope to the 4th bolt as this would make the start up the very loose rock, soil and vegetation a bit less stressful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climbing from 4th bolt. Solid 7b+. Could do with a fixed rope to the 4th bolt as this would make the start up the very loose rock, soil and vegetation a bit less stressful.

Logged Ascents

23 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 19 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Want Out

Grade: 7b+ ***
(The Cuttings)

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