Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A tremendous climb, when in condition. From the belay, blast direct up the leaning rib on some weird flowstone holds. © Rockfax
FA. Joff Cook Jun/1995.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DanWeiss | 21 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Worth a go if you dare to get up the choss pile. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Worth a go if you dare to get up the choss pile. |
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| Ben Thorne | 3 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Oops. That didn't work then! What I was trying to say was that you should be commenting on Ocean Rock 6c+, not this route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Oops. That didn't work then! What I was trying to say was that you should be commenting on Ocean Rock 6c+, not this route. |
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| Ben Thorne | 3 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ian and Neil - you're commenting about the wrong route. You're after <a href="http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_route.html?id=19290"> this one</a> | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ian and Neil - you're commenting about the wrong route. You're after <a href="http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_route.html?id=19290"> this one</a> |
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| ian bryant | 21 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: i thought it was very good & with excellent rock. though deceptively hard compared to go with the flow (when i looked across at it from that route i thought it looked about the same grade). the crux reachy moves fairly low down foxed me at first, after that it was a case of 'racing' for the top. 6c+ is about as hard as i can climb so it must be about right! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: i thought it was very good & with excellent rock. though deceptively hard compared to go with the flow (when i looked across at it from that route i thought it looked about the same grade). the crux reachy moves fairly low down foxed me at first, after that it was a case of 'racing' for the top. 6c+ is about as hard as i can climb so it must be about right! |
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| steve taylor | 19 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: No - it's a newie called "Ocean Rock", 6c+. Aeroforce is quite a long way to the right, with a very different approach. What did you think of it? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: No - it's a newie called "Ocean Rock", 6c+. Aeroforce is quite a long way to the right, with a very different approach. What did you think of it? |
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| ian bryant | 19 Jan, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: is this the route directly to the right of Go with the Flow? i.e. starting on the same ledge but a few feet further to the right? if so, is it really 7b??? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: is this the route directly to the right of Go with the Flow? i.e. starting on the same ledge but a few feet further to the right? if so, is it really 7b??? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Slave to the Cave
Grade: 7b ***
(Dancing Ledge)