Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Climbs the slab just left of centre. © Rockfax
FA. Nigel Coe 15/Oct/1988.
Ticklists
Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SuperLee1985 | 19 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lower-offs seem to be missing, had to use the ones on The Bolt Factory, however these were dubious, a loose looking staple and a questionable sling. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lower-offs seem to be missing, had to use the ones on The Bolt Factory, however these were dubious, a loose looking staple and a questionable sling. |
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| Tom Beaumont | 27 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: The route to the left is "A nugget of purest green" also grade 4. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The route to the left is "A nugget of purest green" also grade 4. |
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| omniscient_penguin | 11 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seemed quite easy for a 4? Big juggy grips with plenty of friction, a nice location right next to the sea with a nice view - great at sunset. I was mobbed by sandflies on the belay though. If anything the scramble under the slab wearing trainers and getting my rucksack through was harder than the climb itself(although obviously I didn't do the climb in the trainers). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Seemed quite easy for a 4? Big juggy grips with plenty of friction, a nice location right next to the sea with a nice view - great at sunset. I was mobbed by sandflies on the belay though. If anything the scramble under the slab wearing trainers and getting my rucksack through was harder than the climb itself(although obviously I didn't do the climb in the trainers). |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach
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