Restricted Access

Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.

Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place.  Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge.  This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season. 

25m.

Rockfax Description
Varied climbing on good rock. Start at the same point as Rufty's Roll Up. Head rightwards and up two vertical cracks to a ledge below the headwall. Move left onto a ramp then out right to finish up cracks and a groove. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Orange Spot Swanage , SPA Training Minimum Requirement

Feedback

User Date Notes
matt perks 14 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This is a good route. The final wall is steep but the gear is fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a good route. The final wall is steep but the gear is fine.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blackers Hole

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 15
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tensor II

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Guillemot Ledge)

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