Restricted Access
Finding the access can be tricky but once the short climb down to the upper ledge is located the rest is straight forward. Due to in isolated nature the cliff top stakes that are essential for belays and abseils are often in a poor state or miss, it is good practice to check before you start climbing. Also Rockfall has effected some climbs.
Bolting is only really allowed in the main cave and quarry wall with many harder route still having rotting fixed gear in place. Any route will need cleaning after a nesting season.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction includes all routes west of Frontiersman (including the sea caves). all the way to Cormorant Ledge. This is an extremely sensitive area with an easily flushed kittiwake colony - please don't go into this area for any reason, especially bolting or climbing. The NT carefuly monitor ths area and have been unhappy to fine visitoring climber, cleaning and installing fix gear during the restricted season.
Rockfax Description
The outrageous ship's prow arete overhangs at 45° for most of its length. It has three hard sections with shakeouts in between. The first is a radical groove, then a crack bisecting a series of roofs and finally a less steep arching crack and breaks with tough moves to reach the belay. There are around 22 bolts. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley Apr/1992.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Rockfax West Country top 50 , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , UK 8a and up , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Steep UK Sport Routes , Routes , Sportland , Pyramid to 8a+ , Another lifelist? , Swanage Sport Routes , Sport life
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ellis Bird | 28 Feb, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The route stays dry throughout the winter without seepage, but needs low humidity. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The route stays dry throughout the winter without seepage, but needs low humidity. |
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| Rob Kennard | 19 Feb, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first 5 bolts have been replaced with stainless steel Petzl's - There is currently a staple missing from the initial section, which should be placed before the Bird-Ban returns, Rob | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The first 5 bolts have been replaced with stainless steel Petzl's - There is currently a staple missing from the initial section, which should be placed before the Bird-Ban returns, Rob |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blackers Hole
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Fuel My Fire
Grade: 8a+ ***
(Cattle Troughs)