UKH

Rockfax Description
A majestic pitch of flawless quality. Take lots of wires. Start beneath the disjointed crack-system on the left side of the slab.
Move up to the widening of the crack at the overlap. Just above the overlap, make a long step left into another good crack. Follow this, and where it fades, move right to a thin crack and follow this to the top. Sustained. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A truely fine pitch following the thin crackline towards the left side of the face. Boldly climb upto the biggest crack at the slim overlap and make a move left to another good finger crack. Follow the crack and thinner continuation to the top. A major foot pump-out!
The face is tidal.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Very good routes in the UK , Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Ultimate Sea Stack , Moving to Devon , World Class Britain & Ireland , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , South West in Extremis , Dan’s Delights

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 16 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 3rd time climbing this - 2 x seconds and 1 (now) x lead. Great onsight by Max. That sting in the tail is a subtle beast. I had a meltdown as arms gave up and I was struggling to work out the sequence. I feel like a prat as I knew the sting was coming and on lead it still rocked my foundations and caught me out - a meltdown commenced. Once topped out I was ore thankful it was over. I found Pressure Drop easier? Go figure. Glad we didn\'t attempt Jamaican Dub.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3rd time climbing this - 2 x seconds and 1 (now) x lead. Great onsight by Max. That sting in the tail is a subtle beast. I had a meltdown as arms gave up and I was struggling to work out the sequence. I feel like a prat as I knew the sting was coming and on lead it still rocked my foundations and caught me out - a meltdown commenced. Once topped out I was ore thankful it was over. I found Pressure Drop easier? Go figure. Glad we didn't attempt Jamaican Dub.
Tall Oak 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: What a piece of rock. I dont know any other rock quite like this. Wonderful route, wonderful climbing. Having only seconded this I would like to go and repeat this. Note to prospective climbers from low tide it was rightly 2 to 2.5 hours climbing ability before your belayer gets wet feet. The traverse between cracks was heart stopping moment but lots of fun for the lanky; not sure what the small sizes would do?
Show beta
βeta: What a piece of rock. I dont know any other rock quite like this. Wonderful route, wonderful climbing. Having only seconded this I would like to go and repeat this. Note to prospective climbers from low tide it was rightly 2 to 2.5 hours climbing ability before your belayer gets wet feet. The traverse between cracks was heart stopping moment but lots of fun for the lanky; not sure what the small sizes would do?
pguilloux 13 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: North w faced so the crag is mostly in the shade and takes time drying. Had to start in wet condition. Gear is mostly good.
Show beta
βeta: North w faced so the crag is mostly in the shade and takes time drying. Had to start in wet condition. Gear is mostly good.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blackchurch

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 118
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 115
Votes cast 110
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Quatermass

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Lundy)

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