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14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the thin crack just right of the arete to reach the leaning wall and a horizontal slot. Good cams here protect the bewildering moves to jugs (hint - it is all about what you do with your legs). Make a prompt exit to easy ground. Almost E1, the route is one of the most frigged in the Peak and sadly the runner placements are suffering because of this. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1950.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, All trad climbs at Birchen Edge, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes, An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District

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User Date Notes
paul mitchell 16 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The crux hold has crumbled,so the route is a lot more than HVS unless you are pretty tall.
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βeta: The crux hold has crumbled,so the route is a lot more than HVS unless you are pretty tall.
MorganMcGlade 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: you cannot attach a top rope to the monument. hard to read on the plaque.
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βeta: you cannot attach a top rope to the monument. hard to read on the plaque.
Pythonist 19 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Hmmmm... Hard 5c move with perfect gear, above a slightly interesting start, and followed by nothing at all. Onsight, HVS sounds about right, but if there was another 2m of decent climbing either before or after the crux, it'd probably be E1. Definitely much harder than Ratline, but the gear's so much better! I'd still give Rat E1 and this HVS.
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βeta: Hmmmm... Hard 5c move with perfect gear, above a slightly interesting start, and followed by nothing at all. Onsight, HVS sounds about right, but if there was another 2m of decent climbing either before or after the crux, it'd probably be E1. Definitely much harder than Ratline, but the gear's so much better! I'd still give Rat E1 and this HVS.
Glen 4 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A hard climb to onsite - it takes a while to work out the sequence. It doesn't make sense that Ratline is E1 and this is HVS. Ratline is technically easier, less sustained/strenuous and has better gear. I say Ratine=HVS, Orpheus Wall=E1 ;)
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βeta: A hard climb to onsite - it takes a while to work out the sequence. It doesn't make sense that Ratline is E1 and this is HVS. Ratline is technically easier, less sustained/strenuous and has better gear. I say Ratine=HVS, Orpheus Wall=E1 ;)
Stevie3ee 24 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: far to short the end comes all to soon and its naff when when you get there. good route though my first hvs.
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βeta: far to short the end comes all to soon and its naff when when you get there. good route though my first hvs.
MNA123 12 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Best route ive climbed in a long time spent ages looking at the bottom bit trying to figure it out but as soon as i was roped up i got straight up to the break no sweat. i found a left footed heel hook and a right hand pull in the crack below the break the best way up this beast
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βeta: Best route ive climbed in a long time spent ages looking at the bottom bit trying to figure it out but as soon as i was roped up i got straight up to the break no sweat. i found a left footed heel hook and a right hand pull in the crack below the break the best way up this beast
Tyler 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Got pumped figuring out how to climb this, so I just slapped from the slot to the break before it was too late. It worked but it's not the sort of thing I expect to find on a HVS
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βeta: Got pumped figuring out how to climb this, so I just slapped from the slot to the break before it was too late. It worked but it's not the sort of thing I expect to find on a HVS
Monk 11 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I don't see why it is easier to solo. The gear is a couple of friends which take seconds to place in a not too strenuous position. The moves are tough though, but it feels great when you get the jugs!
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βeta: I don't see why it is easier to solo. The gear is a couple of friends which take seconds to place in a not too strenuous position. The moves are tough though, but it feels great when you get the jugs!
Mark Davies PK 7 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Mad as toast!
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βeta: Mad as toast!
Budge 12 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A lot harder than Ratline
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βeta: A lot harder than Ratline

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 166
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 156
Votes cast 133
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

East Rib

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shining Clough)