Rockfax Description
Good climbing up the thin crack and wall above. For the technically proficient a problem start is available on the right at a tough and rounded f5+. © Rockfax
FA. Eric Byne 1951.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , All trad climbs at Birchen Edge , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Birchen Edge 1981 guide routes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| paulerussell | 9 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sandbag start, then straightforward HS. I traversed in from the left to start | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Sandbag start, then straightforward HS. I traversed in from the left to start |
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| Pythonist | 21 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: Having just re-done the 5c start, this variation is harder than the Bulbous Bow, so the route with that start should get E1 rather than VS! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Having just re-done the 5c start, this variation is harder than the Bulbous Bow, so the route with that start should get E1 rather than VS! |
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| Pythonist | 15 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Technical gradings are bang on for all the variations. Comparable to the other VSs at Birchen, and the variations are definitely 5b on the left and 5c on the right. However, the 5b is pretty much the same move as the E1 (5c) next door... I wouldn't argue if this got dwon-graded to HS, though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Technical gradings are bang on for all the variations. Comparable to the other VSs at Birchen, and the variations are definitely 5b on the left and 5c on the right. However, the 5b is pretty much the same move as the E1 (5c) next door... I wouldn't argue if this got dwon-graded to HS, though. |
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| Jon Stewart | 9 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: yep, totally overgraded and over starred. But what about the problem starts? I think it's 5a on the left and bloody difficult (harder than 5c) on the right (i.e. i couldn't do it). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: yep, totally overgraded and over starred. But what about the problem starts? I think it's 5a on the left and bloody difficult (harder than 5c) on the right (i.e. i couldn't do it). |
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| Sam and will | 14 Mar, 2005 |
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βeta: i thought the hardest bit was the start but i did wen i was 13 a few yrs ago. definately overgraded | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: i thought the hardest bit was the start but i did wen i was 13 a few yrs ago. definately overgraded |
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| Ander | 15 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: James's comments struck a cord. I didn't do the File, but did it's near neighbour The Rat's Tail. And to say that is anything like the same should confer a custodial sentance. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: James's comments struck a cord. I didn't do the File, but did it's near neighbour The Rat's Tail. And to say that is anything like the same should confer a custodial sentance. |
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| The old James turnbull | 28 Feb, 2004 |
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βeta: this graded the same as the file at higgar tor, seems weired. i agree getting over the first bulge is the only hard bit but well protected. after that was to easy to be completely enjoyable. good first vs lead | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: this graded the same as the file at higgar tor, seems weired. i agree getting over the first bulge is the only hard bit but well protected. after that was to easy to be completely enjoyable. good first vs lead |
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| withey | 22 Jan, 2004 |
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βeta: It's a helluva move though. I found that there was a pretty good finger jam at full stretch, before the slap, but bringing your foot up to your elbow is pretty tough. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It's a helluva move though. I found that there was a pretty good finger jam at full stretch, before the slap, but bringing your foot up to your elbow is pretty tough. |
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| LakesWinter | 3 Sep, 2003 |
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βeta: I agreee with david bowden he is a wise vegetable, maybe a parsnip. This is surely not VS but S4b or even HS 4c. It has got loads more polished over the last few years though, maybe all those groups top roping it is having an effect....... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I agreee with david bowden he is a wise vegetable, maybe a parsnip. This is surely not VS but S4b or even HS 4c. It has got loads more polished over the last few years though, maybe all those groups top roping it is having an effect....... |
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| Simon Caldwell | 28 Aug, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: For once I agree with the upgrade. It's a while since I did it but my memory is of a choice between gear or holds? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: For once I agree with the upgrade. It's a while since I did it but my memory is of a choice between gear or holds? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Birchen Edge
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Lynx
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wildcat)