UKH

110m, 3 pitches. An excellent climb taking the two-tiered wall and prominent chimney between Moonshadow and Chimney Route. The route is not sustained, but gives very good climbing with two bold and technical sections in its lower part, then an easier, superbly positioned chimney to finish. Start 8m below the fork in Twisting Gully.

1. 30m. From the gully bed, swing out right across the steep wall to gain a series of small ledges. Follow these up and right to reach the base of shallow right facing corner. Move up this for 3m, then move right and up to gain the terrace.
2. 30m. Just right of the highest point of the terrace is a steep crack with ice at its top. Gain the crack from the left and pull steeply onto the ice. Follow the icy groove to below the steeper section of the chimney. Belay on a fine pedestal on the right. The wide chimney of Inclination lies round the arête to the right.
3. 50m. Continue the prominent chimney and pass under a huge chokestone to finish more easily.

Malcolm Bass & Simon Yearsley 12/Mar/2013.

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Ultimate Scottish VII’s

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Route of Interest

Die Riesenwand

Grade: VII 6 ***
(Beinn Bhan)
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