One of the UK's greatest HVSs. A stunning atmosphere and position, with steep climbing on big holds. Start at a hanging belay just above the high-water mark and 6m right of the first good tidal ledge reached on the approach traverse. 1) 5a, 27m. Make a diagonal traverse up right to a slight rib past a peg, climb round the rib to the base of a steep crack. Climb the crack to a chockstone, then traverse up leftwards across the wall to a stance on a ledge at the base of a corner-crack.2) 4c, 17m. Climb the corner to a steepening, then head left across the wall to a comfortable stance on a pedestal. Peg, thread and sling belay.3) 5a, 32m. Move out right to the base of a steep corner-crack. Climb the crack on good holds to an easing at its top. Move left to a smooth walled corner-crack and jam and layback up this all the way to the top. Belay on a large metal pole. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Memorable approach by sea level traverse which can feel hard on humid days. Alternatively approach by a 60m abseil FROM THE LIP (use another rope back to the pole). If you abseil remember to kick out or you'll end up hanging over the sea like a dummy.
Excellent video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMMRgLyh3fY
Steep urgent climbing on the first pitch and a sublime sustained corner to finish. Rightly a candidate for the best HVS in the country. Check out this article http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=133
Peter Biven , Pat Littlejohn (VL) 06/Aug/1967.
Hard Rock, HVS Adventures, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, MIA logbook must haves!, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, South West VDiff-HVS, 2016 Targets, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Adventure ticklist 2018, University of Exeter must tick's, Moving to Devon, Hard Rock 2020, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Big Routes 2020, Hard Rock, 2020 Trips, Hard Rock & Other Classics, So you think you’re a VS climber?, The Devonman Cometh- Living in Exeter Top200.
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