Loading Notifications...
80m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A phenomenally-exposed route that voyages out across the lip of the Great Cave prior to climbing the massive headwall above. Start as for Moonraker at its hanging stance.
1) 5c, 36m. Follow Moonraker to the chockstone at the top of its steep crack. Traverse right, out across the lip of the cave to a corner, and climb this to a roof. Traverse rightwards beneath the roof via some constricted moves to an old peg and continue for 3m to a footledge and hanging stance. Friend 3 will be useful for the belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Move back left to a steep corner/groove and climb it to an overhang at its end. Move out left and up to a deep slot before climbing the wall above, leftwards to a good ledge. The short wall on the right gains a cave and a huge thread belay.
3) 5b, 23m. Move left out of the cave and climb steep ground to a narrow groove on the right which is followed to a ledge. Ascend the leaning wall above to an overhang and pull though this with difficulty to better holds and easier climbing to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Awesome inescapable climbing above the big cave. One of the South West's finest even if you do meet a bit of dirt and the occasional flower.

Article on Dreadnought by John Cox here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1307

Great Historical article and pictures from Frank cannings here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1453

Frank Cannings & Pat Littlejohn 4/4/69 FFA Littlejohn 1977.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, MIA logbook must haves!, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Moving to Devon, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), The Devonman Cometh- Living in Exeter Top200.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

129 users have logged this
76 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 28
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Storm Wall

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Lundy)