A wild and committing trip into one of the UK's most outrageous sections of sea-cliff. Start 8m to the right of Moonraker's tidal ledges at a short corner below a roof. 1) 5b, 20m. Traverse rightwards between two bands of overhangs to a niche, then pull up rightwards to easier ground. Continue traversing to a red corner below a steep wall and a belay.2) 6b, 15m. Climb up to the roof (old peg) and make a wildly committing move up and right past a fixed nut. Continue steeply rightwards on jugs to a restricted belay in a red corner.3) 6a, 16m. Make a difficult move off the belay to join a hand-crack which is followed out around the lip to a constricted rest. Traverse down rightwards for 5m to a peg-belay.4) 6a, 26m. Traverse back left to where some difficult moves reach a cramped hanging wall. Keep moving leftwards past a bush to join Dreadnought at its corner. Follow the corner and traverse rightwards under the roof to the Dreadnought belay.5) 5b, 28m. Climb up Dreadnought's hanging groove before moving right at the capping overhang to a shallow groove. Ascend the groove to another shallow groove which leads to the left end of an oblong roof, traverse rightwards beneath this to a short groove which is followed to a small stance.6) 5b, 20m. Move left and climb through the overhang to gain an awkward crack, ascend this and continue direct to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Sept 2018 rockfall on pitch 3 - not yet re-climbed free. Pitch 2 and 3 can be strung together to avoid the awful stance.
Finally DWS or shallow grave soloing? (a term coined by Dave T) Your call (it is all encompassed in that S3 grade). The DWS version climbs a slight variation of the first 4 pitches to join Dreadnought which is descended into Moonraker. Carefully assess the depth below the hard bits - there is a big boulder to hit.
FA. Andy Meyers, Mick Fowler 11.1982 15/Nov/1982.
Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)
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