UKH

840m. SECTION 1 PROMONTORY TO GREAT CAVE F6a+ S1
Walk out to the Headland at the Southern Tip of the Old Redoubt. Locate a grassy gully 50m to your right (looking out) and descend this and the wall beneath on stacked flakes. A rightwards traverse (facing in) leads around the headland and into the Blue Grotto with its memorable bridging manoeuvre across a chasm. Climb wade or swim the Green Grotto depending on the tide and continue to the Great Cave.

SECTION 2 RAINBOW BRIDGE (REVISED) F7a+ S1
Waterline traversing leads right to the pocketed streaky wall and on to a low rest beneath the Pink Block. Onwards to The Crystal Cave and a rest before committing to the slopey crux sequence. Climb up the technical groove, break right and locate and downclimb Look, Before You Leap. Back at sea level a sequency crux around a rib (7a) leads into a sea cave (The Cauldron). Exit via the rope bridge and downclimb Eight Ball. Continue via the wild jug rail of The Wave. Terminal Zawn is negotiated by a safer (S0) variant (at mid-tide) which follows Rainbow Bridge to the hands off rest in a large niche/hole but then descends on the right to join Gluteas Maximus which is followed to a well earned rest on Terminal Zawn Ledge.

SECTION 3 OZ WALL TO WHITE RHINO TEA F7a S0
Follow Oz Wall Traverse to its junction with the pinnacle. Downclimb the left wall on calcite and sandstone jugs. A pumpy traverse of the cave wall leads to a rest on a rock bridge. Now ascend the easy crystal chimney back to daylight (Cavewoman). Now reverse Barnacle Traverse Continuation and take a rising line into White Rhino Tea and finish up that. Pumped yet?

ARTICLE HERE: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3218

FA. Ken Palmer 18/Aug/2010.

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High 7b+
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High 7b
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High 7a+
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High S2
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Style of Ascent
Soloed
DWS
Not Set
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
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Route of Interest

Bronski Beat

Grade: 7b S1 ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)
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