55m, 3 pitches. A fun extension of Seventh Dread into the centre of the headwall. Double up on small and medium cams.
1) 5b, 16m. Start at the top of pitch 1 of Moonraker. Continue up Moonraker for 8m until you can swing on to the right wall and hand traverse ledges in a wild position. Follow a rising traverse to stand on a large red ledge with a piton belay (sound peg but back up with cams).
2) 5b, 16m. Continue up and right to step around the rib onto a slab beneath a roof. Powerful moves around the right side of the roof lead to a small stance and peg belay on Caveman.
3) 5b, 23m. As for Caveman/Lip Trip. Climb the groove behind the belay and breakout left through the roof. Continue up and left topping out underneath the corner of the fort.

FA. F.Cannings, P.Littlejohn, P.Biven, M.Fowler.


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Route of Interest

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Telegraph Hole)

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