76m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the UK's greatest HVSs. A stunning atmosphere and position, with steep climbing on big holds. Start at a hanging belay just above the high-water mark and 6m right of the first good tidal ledge reached on the approach traverse.
1) 5a, 27m. Make a diagonal traverse up right to a slight rib past a peg, climb round the rib to the base of a steep crack. Climb the crack to a chockstone, then traverse up leftwards across the wall to a stance on a ledge at the base of a corner-crack.
2) 4c, 17m. Climb the corner to a steepening, then head left across the wall to a comfortable stance on a pedestal. Peg, thread and sling belay.
3) 5a, 32m. Move out right to the base of a steep corner-crack. Climb the crack on good holds to an easing at its top. Move left to a smooth walled corner-crack and jam and layback up this all the way to the top. Belay on a large metal pole. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Please note that this route is bird banned from 1st march to 31st July. It is important that this is respected to allow continued access to this amazing crag.

Check the BMC RAD for full details:

FA. Peter Biven, Pat Littlejohn 06/Aug/1967.


Hard Rock , HVS Adventures , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , MIA logbook must haves! , Rockfax West Country top 50 , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , 2016 Targets , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Adventure ticklist 2018 , University of Exeter must tick's , Moving to Devon , Hard Rock 2020 , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Big Routes 2020 , Hard Rock 2020 , 2020/21 Trips , Hard Rock & Other Classics , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon , Cream first! , 32 By 32 , Dan’s Delights , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3


User Date Notes
charlesmfrench 13 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Only the best HVS in Britain.
Show beta
βeta: Only the best HVS in Britain.
gem_stone12 4 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Currently a seagull chick nesting half way up!
Show beta
βeta: Currently a seagull chick nesting half way up!

Logged Ascents

648 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Berry Head - The Old Redoubt

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 463 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 111
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 111
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last Exit to Torquay

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)

Loading Notifications...