125m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A wild and committing trip into one of the UK's most outrageous sections of sea-cliff. Start 8m to the right of Moonraker's tidal ledges at a short corner below a roof.
1) 5b, 20m. Traverse rightwards between two bands of overhangs to a niche, then pull up rightwards to easier ground. Continue traversing to a red corner below a steep wall and a belay.
2) 6b, 15m. Climb up to the roof (old peg) and make a wildly committing move up and right past a fixed nut. Continue steeply rightwards on jugs to a restricted belay in a red corner.
3) 6a, 16m. Make a difficult move off the belay to join a hand-crack which is followed out around the lip to a constricted rest. Traverse down rightwards for 5m to a peg-belay.
4) 6a, 26m. Traverse back left to where some difficult moves reach a cramped hanging wall. Keep moving leftwards past a bush to join Dreadnought at its corner. Follow the corner and traverse rightwards under the roof to the Dreadnought belay.
5) 5b, 28m. Climb up Dreadnought's hanging groove before moving right at the capping overhang to a shallow groove. Ascend the groove to another shallow groove which leads to the left end of an oblong roof, traverse rightwards beneath this to a short groove which is followed to a small stance.
6) 5b, 20m. Move left and climb through the overhang to gain an awkward crack, ascend this and continue direct to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Not re-climbed since rockfall in 2018.

FA. Andy Meyers, Mick Fowler 15/Nov/1982.


Extreme Rock , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)


There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

20 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Berry Head - The Old Redoubt

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 19 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: E6 6a ***

Loading Notifications...