Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 648m a.s.l
Faces N
Redpoint of Magic Flute at Bernia on the Costa Blanca (climber Mark Glaister) © Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor
The Bernia climbing area faces southwest and get loads of sun, but it is exposed to any wind. Progress along the foot of the cliff can be a painful affair due to the coarse vegetation; the occasional animal track helps. The routes are generally quick-drying. The ridge itself is extremely exposed to any weather that is going and should only be attempted in good conditions.
The Ridge - Follow the AP-7 to junction 63 and exit here. Turn south and drive through Benissa and turn right at a junction signed for Xalo/Jalon. Immediately take the road on the left signed to the village of Pinos, follow this winding road uphill for around approximately 7km to a left turn that leads to the parking at the start of the approach walk next to a restaurant on the left. From the parking, walk past the front of the restaurant and follow a track/road along the wooded slopes below the ridge to a font at some rocks on the right. From the font, follow a path on the right (yellow and white painted stripes) that climbs up across scrub and scree to meet the rocky base of the ridge at a round hole in the cliff. The hole goes right through the ridge to the other side - a remarkable feature. The path now gets a little steeper and ends in an easy scramble to a col on the ridge and a breathtaking view down to the coast.
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