One of Dartmoor's finest. A gritstonesque climb that packs in some athletic and technical moves. Start on a flat-topped block below the left end of the huge overhang in the centre of the main face. Pull up directly into the corner, left of the overhang, and place some good gear before swinging out to the arete on a horizontal break just above the lip of the overhang. Gain a flake on the face around the arete and make a couple of tricky moves to leave it and enter the base of a good crack. Follow the crack to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
50'. Surmounting the big roof at half height, using obvious hanging flake on the left end of the overhang. Pull round the flake (good photo opportunity) and reach a second flake on the exposed face. Crank up on this flake to gain a crimp allowing you to pull into a vertical crack. Follow this to near the top where balanced moves allow you to gain the finishing jug out to the right.
Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner 23/Apr/1976.
West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, South Devon & Dartmoor First Ascents in 1976, Moving to Devon, The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200., Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4, 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
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