UKH

210m, 5 pitches. This takes a fine steep line up the face of the buttress to the left of Fox Gully. An excellent, strenuous and varied climb up the centre of the buttress.
1. 30m Start below the undercut shallow corner/groove leading to the centre of the buttress. Pull over this and step left into the groove and up to belays below a steep wall.
2. 30m Gain an undercut alcove and move up and left across its top and climb an overhanging wall to continue up a steep groove to avoid stance.
3. 40m above is an overhanging off-width crack; climb this and up the groove above to an overhanging exit. Snow now leads right wards to a junction with Fox Gully ArĂȘte up which the climb finishes.

John Mackenzie, Simon Nadin, Neil Wilson 13/Feb/2010.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Route of Interest

The Ice Hose

Grade: V 4 ***
(Beinn Dearg)
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