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130m, 5 pitches. Superb climbing following the summer line. There is a good B&W photo showing the route in the Tower Ridge section of Cold Climbs. 1. 40m Climb the lower slab in a direct line toward the base of the corner, belay beneath a short wall. 2. 20m Overcome the short wall on the left using thin ice close to the base of the Echo Wall arete, continue to the base of the corner. 3. 10m Climb the steep wall making hard moves right (crux) beneath the roof. Follow the corner above for a few metres to a hanging belay (old peg in situ). 4. 30m Climb the sustained corner/crack. Where the crack steepens below a large platform, traverse right along a narrow exposed ledge for 4m and then climb up to reach the large platform and a good block belay. 5. 25m Regain the corner/crack and follow it steeply at first to gain and enter the chimney above. At the top of the chimney, back and foot outwards and exit onto Tower Ridge.

Pete Davies and Tim Marsh Dec/2008.


Ultimate Scottish VII’s


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Route of Interest

Bow Direct

Grade: VII 8 ***
(Sgurr an Fhidhleir)