UKH

210m, 6 pitches. Takes the obvious groove on the steep pinnacle on the lower section of Cousins’ Buttress, then easier climbing above the saddle. Start as for Harrison’s Climb Direct.
1. 30m. Move right and climb the two short narrow chimneys. Traverse delicately horizontally left past a block to belay in a right angled corner at the base of the main grove.
2. 25m. Tenuously up and left to gain a large flake, then trend up and right into the base of the steep groove. Climb the groove with an awkward pull out left at the top to a fine exposed stance.
3. 30m. The steep wide crack above leads to a short awkward wall and then easier climbing in a fine situation to a belay on the top of the pinnacle.
4. 35m. Move easily along to the saddle, then out left past a large open corner to the foot of the 30m icefall on Harrison’s Climb where an icy gangway leads out rightwards back onto the buttress.
5 & 6 90m Climb the icy gangway to a small snowfield then a series of pleasant icy corners, grooves and wall to the upper coire.

Neil Silver, Malcolm Bass & Simon Yearsley 04/Feb/2015.

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Ultimate Scottish VII’s

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Route of Interest

Line Up (Winter)

Grade: VII 8 ***
(Buachaille Etive Mor)
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