UKH

85m, 3 pitches. A surprisingly steep route that climbs the third section of Chatter Buttress, starting down and right of In the Knoe. The primary feature is an apparent offwidth crack splitting the clean wall high on the buttress. Belay at a slightly raised platform 3m right of the left edge.
1. 30m Above is a short wall with twin cracks. Climb this into a small niche, then step higher before moving rightwards to a short left facing corner. Surmount this, then step right onto a sloping ledge and into a fault line. Climb the bulging wall above via the fault and work up and slightly left to a ledge with a recess on the left. On the right is a right trending, offwidth groove. Climb this and so to the belay ledge shared with In the Knoe.
2. 35m From the left end of the belay ledge climb the left facing corner directly above and pull right onto a ledge (possible belay). Continue up the cracked corner/groove until it runs into the head wall. Make a hard move up to a horizontal break, then commit rightwards and step up into the apparent offwidth, a short, shallow right facing corner. Climb the corner then a bulge to easier ground. Continue to a belay on the left overlooking In the Knoe.
3. 20m Continue above trending right then back left to a final steep bulge. Pull through this bulge to the top.

C. Cartwright, S. Richardson 29/Dec/2003.

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3 star Scottish winter, Ultimate Scottish VII’s

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Route of Interest

The Crooked Smile

Grade: VII 7 ***
(Beinn Udlaidh)
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