Loading Notifications...

Covid-19

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.

300m, 4 pitches. The obvious line on the left side of the upper corrie finishing at the point where the upper connecting ridge of A'Chioch meets the summit plateau. There are a large number of ice pitches of which the first may be the hardest; sometimes it can be avoided on the left.

C.J.S. Bonington, T.W. Patey 01/Mar/1969.

Ticklists

Cold Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter, Cold Climbs (slimmed down)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rikardo 13 Apr Show βeta
βeta: We climbed as a three with very poor gear and belays not much better, but great climbing. Our last day climbing due to impending Covid lockdown
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We climbed as a three with very poor gear and belays not much better, but great climbing. Our last day climbing due to impending Covid lockdown
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Rikardo 21 Mar 2nd
with jon gupta
with jon gupta
tomwalton 7 Feb, 2019 AltLd Ice falls were thin, rotting and challenging. Not taking more than a stubby screw as protection. As mentioned in the guidebook there is very little rock gear throughout the route which meant protection was hard to come by. Rising temps released a few small loads of snow from the upper slopes, with today’s avalanche forecast being moderate. Would not reccommend climbing if forecast is moderate or higher. Aside from the danger it was a very good long route and finishes pleasantly on the summit plateau.
Ice falls were thin, rotting and challenging. Not taking more than a stubby screw as protection. As mentioned in the guidebook there is very little rock gear throughout the route which meant protection was hard to come by. Rising temps released a few small loads of snow from the upper slopes, with today’s avalanche forecast being moderate. Would not reccommend climbing if forecast is moderate or higher. Aside from the danger it was a very good long route and finishes pleasantly on the summit plateau.
Thomas Jones 7 Feb, 2019 AltLd Memorable. For all the wrong reasons.
Memorable. For all the wrong reasons.
BPaske 29 Mar, 2018 Lead
with was
with was
Hidden 29 Mar, 2018 2nd
kbow265 3 Mar, 2018 AltLd +Moritz
+Moritz
Hidden 3 Mar, 2018 AltLd
MorMor 3 Mar, 2018 AltLd
Robertgiddy 3 Mar, 2018 Lead Only just in, the first pitch looked black from the corrie floor but had just enough dark water ice to be claimable. Either our 4th or 5th attempt at this!
Only just in, the first pitch looked black from the corrie floor but had just enough dark water ice to be claimable. Either our 4th or 5th attempt at this!
Hidden 4 Mar, 2017 -
malone 4 Mar, 2017 Lead dnf Did the first pitch then bailed, a touch too thin. No gear on first pitch...
with Appleby
Did the first pitch then bailed, a touch too thin. No gear on first pitch...
with Appleby
adie84 28 Feb, 2016 -
mattierd 28 Feb, 2016 -
jonnyboy 27 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Rob Aide
with Rob Aide
Davesmith1981 27 Feb, 2016 AltLd
with neil phillips
with neil phillips
Captain Solo 13 Feb, 2016 AltLd
Steven Carter 13 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S
Spongebob ? Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S
Jamie B 11 Feb, 2013 AltLd A bit cruddy with gaps appearing. Screws unconvincing.
with Ruth Love
A bit cruddy with gaps appearing. Screws unconvincing.
with Ruth Love
peter.herd 24 Jan, 2013 AltLd Brilliant.
with John M, Rory Brown
Brilliant.
with John M, Rory Brown
Hidden 24 Jan, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2012 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
abbeywall 7 Mar, 2010 AltLd disintegrating fast, especially at narrow bits with some interesting short bits of mixed. Great belay ledge and view before final pitch - wonderful stuff. Led 1, 3 and 5.
with K
disintegrating fast, especially at narrow bits with some interesting short bits of mixed. Great belay ledge and view before final pitch - wonderful stuff. Led 1, 3 and 5.
with K
Hidden 6 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S
Colin Mcgregor 6 Mar, 2010 AltLd
Ian Jones 3 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S Pretty good climb. Did it in 4 pitches. A bit unconsolidated in the easier sections. Two guys behind us were 74 and 68 years old!!
Pretty good climb. Did it in 4 pitches. A bit unconsolidated in the easier sections. Two guys behind us were 74 and 68 years old!!
Hidden 3 Mar, 2010 AltLd
davie.p. 24 Feb, 2010 2nd Epic route in brilliant condition
with Nicky, Owen
Epic route in brilliant condition
with Nicky, Owen
Hidden 22 Feb, 2010 Solo
Hidden 22 Feb, 2010 AltLd
HimTiggins 20 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
galpinos 20 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
alkira 20 Jan, 2010 -
with J Finlay
with J Finlay
Hidden 3 Jan, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 2 Jan, 2010 AltLd
jameshiggins 2 Jan, 2010 AltLd Final pitches by torchlight.
with Kenny Wright
Final pitches by torchlight.
with Kenny Wright
Charlie wp Hill ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Spade 8 Feb, 2009 AltLd
with Tom Pearson
with Tom Pearson
Hidden ? Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
Yourlead 16 Jan, 2001 2nd
with Graham Penny
with Graham Penny
Tim Sparrow ? Feb, 1995 -
Tim Sparrow ? Feb, 1995 -
bandersnatch ? Jan, 1993 2nd MM winter course. Dragged along br M ;) Lower pitch thawing...traversed L onto butress for a pitch. Cornice collapse near top.
with Mairi B
MM winter course. Dragged along br M ;) Lower pitch thawing...traversed L onto butress for a pitch. Cornice collapse near top.
with Mairi B
Hidden ? Feb, 1986 Solo
Will Webb ??, 1986 -
with Alastair Todd
with Alastair Todd
Jah ??, 1983 AltLd
with Mick fowler
with Mick fowler
34 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 12
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Central Gully

Grade: IV 4 ***
(Bidean nam Bian - Stob Coire nam Beith)