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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.

An excellent route following grooves and chimneys up the centre of the steepest buttress in the coire. A short ascending traverse pitch leads to the main groove system.

J. Crawford, D. Dawson & W. Skidmore 01/Feb/1976.

Ticklists

Cold Climbs, Cold Climbs (slimmed down)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Mbaillie 19 Mar, 2018 2nd
Robbie Blease 19 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Not great really. Bold apart from the crux.
Not great really. Bold apart from the crux.
gilmour_789 18 Mar, 2018 AltLd What a cold windy day! Some old ice and lots of good turf, III 4 felt spot on although there really isn't very much gear
with Andy
What a cold windy day! Some old ice and lots of good turf, III 4 felt spot on although there really isn't very much gear
with Andy
Hidden 18 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
Ken Applegate 13 Jan, 2018 Lead Good route. Quite exposed climbing, with not a lot of gear, but the turf was bomber.
with Lukas
Good route. Quite exposed climbing, with not a lot of gear, but the turf was bomber.
with Lukas
Hannah Evans 12 Dec, 2017 AltLd
with Adele Pennington, Lena Brune
with Adele Pennington, Lena Brune
mikewilson789 10 Feb, 2017 2nd dnf Iain lead the first pitch, but none of the turf was frozen and every thing was covered in deep powder and rubbish ice, so we abbed of from the in situ belay.
with iain Robertson
Iain lead the first pitch, but none of the turf was frozen and every thing was covered in deep powder and rubbish ice, so we abbed of from the in situ belay.
with iain Robertson
Rank_Bajin ??, 2017 Lead
Hidden 18 Mar, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 7 Mar, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 7 Mar, 2016 AltLd
metrorat 4 Mar, 2016 Lead
with Jim McFarlane
with Jim McFarlane
davesa 16 Jan, 2016 AltLd Found this hard for III - possibly the conditions did not help
with Mark Huxham
Found this hard for III - possibly the conditions did not help
with Mark Huxham
dan doran 9 Jan, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 9 Jan, 2016 AltLd
Colin Mcgregor 9 Jan, 2016 AltLd Excellent climb with continued interest throughout. Spicy but well protected crux moving out from under the overhang near the end of pitch one. Recommended!
Excellent climb with continued interest throughout. Spicy but well protected crux moving out from under the overhang near the end of pitch one. Recommended!
Andy Syme 14 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Stiff for III and limited pro, except warthogs. That said, its all there, turf was bomber and kept me thoughiy engrossed throughout. Well worth the stars.
with Pete Elliott
Stiff for III and limited pro, except warthogs. That said, its all there, turf was bomber and kept me thoughiy engrossed throughout. Well worth the stars.
with Pete Elliott
johnkeith 6 Feb, 2015 Solo Think it was fairly thin today. Ramp was straightforward, but moving up the final steepening before the angle relents felt tricky and committing for a Grade 111.
Think it was fairly thin today. Ramp was straightforward, but moving up the final steepening before the angle relents felt tricky and committing for a Grade 111.
Hidden 1 Feb, 2015 2nd
jpc1 26 Jan, 2015 AltLd Climbed with Jon Sanders. All good and great to be back out in winter, Raining at the car but turf mostly frozen.
Climbed with Jon Sanders. All good and great to be back out in winter, Raining at the car but turf mostly frozen.
Euan Strachan 21 Feb, 2013 - Um, think we may have taken a 'detour' at the the start as the first pitch seemed to end in a overhang. Although other than that it seemed to fit the route description. Awesome route, awesome winter conditions, well protected over the tricky ground, good variety of climbing
Um, think we may have taken a 'detour' at the the start as the first pitch seemed to end in a overhang. Although other than that it seemed to fit the route description. Awesome route, awesome winter conditions, well protected over the tricky ground, good variety of climbing
Hidden 21 Feb, 2013 2nd
Hidden 27 Jan, 2013 Lead
DougSt ??, 2013 AltLd
with Neil Wightwick
with Neil Wightwick
lawrenceK 13 Dec, 2012 Lead
Hidden 13 Dec, 2012 2nd
niall_mac 1 Feb, 2012 AltLd
am_bodach 1 Feb, 2012 AltLd
youarearobot ? Feb, 2012 2nd dog 1st time on ice, 1 fall on the 2nd pitch crux!
with Alex Runicman, grady_9
1st time on ice, 1 fall on the 2nd pitch crux!
with Alex Runicman, grady_9
grady_9 ? Feb, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Heike 11 Dec, 2011 - Bit slushy today on the walk-in and raining, but loads of snow higher up. Couldn't justify any of the harder routes due to lack of frozenness, but West Buttress was a pleasant consolation price, turfed firmed up 60 metres into the route. Good climb.
with Jeremy
Bit slushy today on the walk-in and raining, but loads of snow higher up. Couldn't justify any of the harder routes due to lack of frozenness, but West Buttress was a pleasant consolation price, turfed firmed up 60 metres into the route. Good climb.
with Jeremy
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
Captain Solo 21 Dec, 2010 AltLd A bit lean so probably a grade harder (than old grade of III).
A bit lean so probably a grade harder (than old grade of III).
mikemartin 21 Dec, 2010 AltLd Dry turf and limited neve made the going a little harder than expected, done in 3 big pitches.
Dry turf and limited neve made the going a little harder than expected, done in 3 big pitches.
morsy 27 Nov, 2010 AltLd
with gerhard mors
with gerhard mors
morsg 27 Nov, 2010 -
with morsy
with morsy
Neilm18 26 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Fraser Phillip
with Fraser Phillip
Hidden 13 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Mar, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 21 Feb, 2010 -
lithos 13 Feb, 2010 - I thought hard for III but i am a wuss. Crux pitch (2) is well protected on good foot holds but tricky. Nice route through the cliff. Shared the experience with lovely couple from E'burgh.
I thought hard for III but i am a wuss. Crux pitch (2) is well protected on good foot holds but tricky. Nice route through the cliff. Shared the experience with lovely couple from E'burgh.
Will Smith 13 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S This is a very good route - in my opinion more interesting than the normal version of taxus. We did it in 5 pitches with sustained interest the whole way. I led pitch 1 (easy traverse followed by turfy chimney and traverse to belay - runout!) pitch 3 (awkard icy groove with mainly turf gear) and pitch 5 (long pitch up good snow ice with bomber threads). The crux second pitch is hard and looks unlikely from below - might explain the three lots of ab tat at the first belay!
with lithos
This is a very good route - in my opinion more interesting than the normal version of taxus. We did it in 5 pitches with sustained interest the whole way. I led pitch 1 (easy traverse followed by turfy chimney and traverse to belay - runout!) pitch 3 (awkard icy groove with mainly turf gear) and pitch 5 (long pitch up good snow ice with bomber threads). The crux second pitch is hard and looks unlikely from below - might explain the three lots of ab tat at the first belay!
with lithos
abbeywall 13 Feb, 2010 AltLd led 2 and 4 (5 pitches)
with K
led 2 and 4 (5 pitches)
with K
glenngordon 7 Feb, 2010 Lead
with jerry millichip
with jerry millichip
niallk 3 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S Good route. Steep crux on good holds. Slightly marred by section after this which seemd to wander about a fair bit with little gear. Turf was bomber, absolutely rock solid - it was so frozen that the best bits were those slightly insulated by the snow which you could get your axe further into.
Good route. Steep crux on good holds. Slightly marred by section after this which seemd to wander about a fair bit with little gear. Turf was bomber, absolutely rock solid - it was so frozen that the best bits were those slightly insulated by the snow which you could get your axe further into.
colinthrelfall ??, 2010 -
philboy 19 Dec, 2009 AltLd
with angus, LakesWinter
with angus, LakesWinter
Hidden 19 Dec, 2009 AltLd O/S
RuFin 29 Mar, 2009 2nd O/S
sgl 26 Feb, 2006 AltLd
with Konnie
with Konnie
steev 26 Feb, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Manjoe
with Manjoe
Hidden 26 Feb, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Jamie B ? Nov, 2004 Lead
Hidden ??, 2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2004 AltLd O/S
Yourlead 28 Dec, 2003 AltLd Not in good condition but good climb all the same
with Graham Penny
Not in good condition but good climb all the same
with Graham Penny
Hidden 1 Feb, 2003 -
Andy Say 14 Jan, 2001 Lead
graeme gatherer ??, 2000 -
DaveHK 5 Dec, 1999 Lead
with Craig Proctor
with Craig Proctor
mark turnbull ??, 1999 -
Stuart the postie ??, 1998 Solo
innes ??, 1997 Solo
Colin McKerrell ??, 1995 -
DaveHK 5 Dec, 1993 AltLd
with Iain Martin
with Iain Martin
Yourlead 27 Dec, 1989 AltLd Just lead the final easy pith
with Graham Penny
Just lead the final easy pith
with Graham Penny
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Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Taxus

Grade: III ***
(Beinn an Dothaidh)