140m, 3 pitches. On the left of the corrie a long spur drops down from the summit of Tom na Gruagaich. To the right of the lower spur is a chimney some 100m high which gains the ridge. This chimney and ridge integral is unclimbed and would make for one of the longer routes in Torridon, if not Scotland.
To the right of the chimney is an ice fall that leads into an ice draped corner.
Follow steep mixed ground to a belay. Continue up the impending ramps and move left into a finely positioned belay at the bottom of an icy corner. Climb the icy corner to make an exposed move right and up to a vertical drap of ice and icicles. Pull steeply over this to a good stance.
Way off is by a long rightwards traverse and down into the corrie.

M Moran, Steve Chadwick 18/Feb/1986.


Martin Moran Routes


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Route of Interest
Fenian Gully

Grade: IV 4 ***
(Beinn Dearg)

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