15m.

Rockfax Description
Follow the The Great Escape to the 6th bolt, then climb direct through the roof to a belay on a block. Note that the crux is on The Great Escape. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson 19/Mar/1994.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben Thorne 23 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: When we did it about 3 or 4 years ago we spent ages making a huge rock pile. Then a mate got me on his shoulders and I managed to reach a few jugs. To get him up to second it he had to shunt up the rope. No direct start to could be added - the roof is horizontal and blank. There's a potential sport line to the right, climbing the super steep rib under the hanging boulder.
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βeta: When we did it about 3 or 4 years ago we spent ages making a huge rock pile. Then a mate got me on his shoulders and I managed to reach a few jugs. To get him up to second it he had to shunt up the rope. No direct start to could be added - the roof is horizontal and blank. There's a potential sport line to the right, climbing the super steep rib under the hanging boulder.
Flannery Lovell 17 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The beach dropping away would explain a lot. I did it about ten years ago and didn't remember the hard, overhanging start. Trad gear hard to place for two reasons. 1 there are no obvious placements. 2 the roof is so steep that I don't think that I would be able to hang on to place it! Grade I would suggest is now well above 6a. Could it be bolted to get onto the traverse line as I reckon it is a well worhtwhile route.
βeta?
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βeta: The beach dropping away would explain a lot. I did it about ten years ago and didn't remember the hard, overhanging start. Trad gear hard to place for two reasons. 1 there are no obvious placements. 2 the roof is so steep that I don't think that I would be able to hang on to place it! Grade I would suggest is now well above 6a. Could it be bolted to get onto the traverse line as I reckon it is a well worhtwhile route.
steve taylor 17 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The boulder beach has dropped by about 10ft, making the start much harder and with no bolts. Perhaps trad gear could be used until a bolt is reached. No idea how hard it is now though.
βeta?
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βeta: The boulder beach has dropped by about 10ft, making the start much harder and with no bolts. Perhaps trad gear could be used until a bolt is reached. No idea how hard it is now though.
Flannery Lovell 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: How do you start it? spent ages trying to get up under the roof, first bolt miles away. what protection is there?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: How do you start it? spent ages trying to get up under the roof, first bolt miles away. what protection is there?

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Route of Interest

Ultrasaurus

Grade: 6c ***
(Hidden Quarry)
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