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17m.

Rockfax Description
The scoop and slight groove to the right of Defcon One are gained via steep moves over the low bulge. Good rock. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 04/May/2003.

Ticklists

Jurassic 7a, Portland, Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
matt perks 8 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Now most of the route is on really good rock; the friable flowstone is pretty clean and doesn't affect the main climbing - the hard moves to reach the break only use one solid crimp on the flowstone, the rest of the holds are on good, black rock to the right. It is reachy at this point. The start is technical and powerful. Good moves. At least 7a.
βeta?
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βeta: Now most of the route is on really good rock; the friable flowstone is pretty clean and doesn't affect the main climbing - the hard moves to reach the break only use one solid crimp on the flowstone, the rest of the holds are on good, black rock to the right. It is reachy at this point. The start is technical and powerful. Good moves. At least 7a.
Ben Stokes 8 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I found the route only slightly friable, so I guess it has cleaned up with traffic. I agree with the need for a long reach symbol - I had to lunge for the break.
βeta?
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βeta: I found the route only slightly friable, so I guess it has cleaned up with traffic. I agree with the need for a long reach symbol - I had to lunge for the break.
JIMBO 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Poor route. The "good" rock is so crumbly I doubt it will last much longer! The crux is on very thin bubbly flow that falls off bit by bit with every ascent. Could do with a long reach symbol and no stars.
βeta?
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βeta: Poor route. The "good" rock is so crumbly I doubt it will last much longer! The crux is on very thin bubbly flow that falls off bit by bit with every ascent. Could do with a long reach symbol and no stars.
Ben Stokes 26 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It was given 7a in the Dorset update.
βeta?
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βeta: It was given 7a in the Dorset update.
Alan James - UKC and UKH 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The word is that this route might be nearer 7a+.
βeta?
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βeta: The word is that this route might be nearer 7a+.

Logged Ascents

13 users have logged this
4 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Portland Heights

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor Central)