UKH

23m.

Rockfax Description
A hard upper wall. Climb easily to the mid-height ledge. Step left and climb direct up the wall via a powerful sequence to finish at the lower-off of Buoys Will Be Buoys. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Hickish 31/Aug/2008.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Portland

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User Date Notes
j_duds 7 Aug Show βeta
βeta: On my first go I got my leg caught behind a loop of rope (leading to a bad rope burn), rope was looping left from the ledge clip on Jurassic to first clip on Shape Shifter. Couldn’t find a way to make the rope work with extensions, slings etc. without it looping behind my legs. Ended up climbing Shape Shifter by coming in from the bolts on Buoys will be buoys to the left, this kept the rope well away from the crux moves for me. Could really do with another bolt adding at the ledge height to keep the rope going downwards and away from the leader, as that fall on to a diagonal rope is awkward.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: On my first go I got my leg caught behind a loop of rope (leading to a bad rope burn), rope was looping left from the ledge clip on Jurassic to first clip on Shape Shifter. Couldn’t find a way to make the rope work with extensions, slings etc. without it looping behind my legs. Ended up climbing Shape Shifter by coming in from the bolts on Buoys will be buoys to the left, this kept the rope well away from the crux moves for me. Could really do with another bolt adding at the ledge height to keep the rope going downwards and away from the leader, as that fall on to a diagonal rope is awkward.
DylanAsena 29 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Harder crux moves than in any 7b/+ I've done. But not a long crux and easy climbing up to it. Hard to grade but I think it's soft 7c or nails sequence for a 7b+... 7c-? 7b++?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder crux moves than in any 7b/+ I've done. But not a long crux and easy climbing up to it. Hard to grade but I think it's soft 7c or nails sequence for a 7b+... 7c-? 7b++?

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tennessee

Grade: 7c ***
(Coastguard South)

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