UKH

2 pitches. Start as for She's Dancing Tonight.

1) Scrambling. An awkward move round the corner leads to a big ledge. Cross this and belay to two staples. (The left-hand one is slightly awkward to reach.)

2) 6a+. Traverse leftwards, using some quartz crystals (the diamonds). Lurch up the hanging groove and finish at the rust-coloured top. Reverse for gear.

FA. Mick Ward 10/Jun/2017.

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Portland NEW SPORT Routes since Rockfax Guide 2012, Portland

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Route of Interest

Reptile Smile

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)
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