UKH

8m.

Rockfax Description
The short crack through the left-hand side of the great roof is a real gritstoner's glory, where subtlety is definitely not required. Be prepared for a brutal battle is the best advice! © Rockfax

FA. Allan Austin 1958. Interestingly the route was originally graded HVS by the Yorkshire hotshot fresh from Almscliff..

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
SteveM 4 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I got spat out of the crack several times before lowering to the ground. It felt harder than the old grade of 5b. The gear's bomber and above your head so E2 5c seems right to me.
βeta?
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βeta: I got spat out of the crack several times before lowering to the ground. It felt harder than the old grade of 5b. The gear's bomber and above your head so E2 5c seems right to me.
midgets of the world unite 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree with E2, but not 5b. Not quite the horrific thrutch it looks like, and can actually be climbed rather elegantly, if your gear doesn't get in the way. Second the use of tape gloves.
βeta?
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βeta: I'd agree with E2, but not 5b. Not quite the horrific thrutch it looks like, and can actually be climbed rather elegantly, if your gear doesn't get in the way. Second the use of tape gloves.
ChrisJD 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: No way is this E2 5b. More like Hard E3 5c.
βeta?
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βeta: No way is this E2 5b. More like Hard E3 5c.
Tom Chamberlain 25 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This is really rather hard for 5b! Also, the comment re. tape is misguided: the inside surfaces of the crack are quite pebbly and had a liberal coating of someone else's blood when I got to them (with my sensibly taped hands).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is really rather hard for 5b! Also, the comment re. tape is misguided: the inside surfaces of the crack are quite pebbly and had a liberal coating of someone else's blood when I got to them (with my sensibly taped hands).

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 18
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

M1

Grade: E2 5b ***
(High Tor)
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