Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.
Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 15 May to 13 June
Reason: Other
Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
The straight fissure is a real cracker. Awkward moves gain the deepening crack/groove. Protection is perfect throughout. © Rockfax
FA. Dick Brown 1951.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Chatsworth to Bamford , ULMC Classics , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 - First ten , Adele & Dave , Bamford Edge , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Proper Cracks UK , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , LD's next grit trip(s) , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , Innominata Mountain Club 30th Anniversary Peak District List , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Loz’ Peaks Wishlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Bamford Bucks Challenge, chasing stars. , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
User | Date | Notes | ||
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DavidNShort | 3 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Top 3rd is the crux for a shortie like myself Lots of toe jamming and hope to shuffle to get the last rest | ||
Show beta
βeta: Top 3rd is the crux for a shortie like myself Lots of toe jamming and hope to shuffle to get the last rest |
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Si dH | 4 Feb, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tussle, jam, layback? The start is a bit of knarly (for the grade) finger jamming, and the rest is a romp. I dont know where people get "crux at the top from"? Must be mad. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Tussle, jam, layback? The start is a bit of knarly (for the grade) finger jamming, and the rest is a romp. I dont know where people get "crux at the top from"? Must be mad. |
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Simon Caldwell | 6 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The top 1/3 is much easier if you don't fill the jamming crack with gear! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The top 1/3 is much easier if you don't fill the jamming crack with gear! |
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Grade: HS 4a ***
(Froggatt Edge)