Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
Start at the base of the corners that leads up to the base of the main corner-line of Doors of Perception. Climb the corner to an overhang and swing up right to a small left-facing corner with a very thin crack in the back. A tricky move up this gains a ledge on the right. Take a good thin crack on the right to a large flake and move up into a slim corner on its right. Follow the shallow corner and right-trending ramp to the top passing a detached block with care. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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JimOakleyAdventures | 24 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Chose this routes earlier to minimise getting wet and it’s in the sun earlier. Great route with some technical moves A seagull protecting its chicks 5m from the anchor point but once started belaying it’s stopped. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Chose this routes earlier to minimise getting wet and it’s in the sun earlier. Great route with some technical moves A seagull protecting its chicks 5m from the anchor point but once started belaying it’s stopped. |
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JoeCoxson | 29 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: Lower section has changed with the loss of the bottom of Dawes of Perception, bit bold but solid | ||
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βeta: Lower section has changed with the loss of the bottom of Dawes of Perception, bit bold but solid |
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NIGBEE | 8 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Thought this was harder than Lost Horizon and better | ||
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βeta: Thought this was harder than Lost Horizon and better |
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)