Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
Intricate and sustained slab climbing. Start below the left side of a flat pillar of rock with a very small wedged block in it at 7m, as for Undercracker. Climb to a ledge above the wedged block. Head rightwards to a good break and then climb left and up to a good vegetated horizontal break. Climb up the left side of a shallow arch feature to another horizontal break and good nuts above. Move up rightwards to another horizontal break and traverse this left to a short thin crack. Take this to the top. © Rockfax
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , South West in Extremis
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)