Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
Lots of great climbing on the first pitch. Start at the left end of the low overhang at the base of the slab, 8m right of the arete.
1) 5b, 23m. Move through the overhang at a notch and climb the widest of the thin cracks to a thin horizontal break. Go left along this to the base of a right-facing corner and climb it to an overlap. Move left to a flake and take this until it is possible to move left once again across the main overlap with difficulty. Down climb leftwards to the stance of Midnight Cowboy.
2) 4c, 34m. Move up rightwards above the overlap to a smaller overlap. Climb the thin diagonal crack leftwards to broken ground and finish up the cleanest line with care. Midnight Cowboy or Kinkyboots give a better more stable finish. © Rockfax
West Country Climbs , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Culm/Devon options , Routes for MCI
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Lundy)