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Rockfax Description
Lots of great climbing on the first pitch. The route described is slightly different to that in other guidebooks taking in a better stance and line. Start at the left end of the low overhang at the base of the slab, 8m right of the arete.
1) 5b, 23m. Move through the overhang at a notch and climb the widest of the thin cracks to a thin horizontal break. Go left along this to the base of a right-facing corner and climb it to an overlap. Move left to a flake and take this until it is possible to move left once again across the main overlap with difficulty. Downclimb leftwards to the stance of Midnight Cowboy.
2) 4c, 34m. Move up rightwards above the overlap to a smaller overlap and horizontal break. Climb the thin diagonal crack leftwards to broken ground and finish up the cleanest line with care. Stake belays on the left and right. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, The Devonman Cometh- Living in Exeter Top200.

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High E1
Mid E1
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High HVS
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Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 19
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
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Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Kinky Cowboy

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Baggy Point)