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Rockfax Description
A good direct line right up the middle of the slab. Start 4m right of the arete as for Midnight Cowboy.
1) 5a, 19m. Climb directly up thin cracks to the apex of the first overlap at 8m. Continue up twin thin cracks above before moving up left to the reddy/brown sloping stance of Midnight Cowboy. Belay on good wires.
2) 4c, 35m. Move up rightwards through the overlap as for Midnight Cowboy and up to a small overlap. Take the thin line slightly rightwards until the rock becomes broken and vegetated. Finish slightly leftwards with care. Stake belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
richardsavill 21 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Definitely worth putting a line down for the top third of the top pitch, knocked a big grass ledge (foothold!?!?) off whilst scrambling up the choss, luckily had seen this might happen so was heading right, to not be directly above my belayer. Great first pitch though, felt easier than Kinkyboots...
 
Show beta
βeta: Definitely worth putting a line down for the top third of the top pitch, knocked a big grass ledge (foothold!?!?) off whilst scrambling up the choss, luckily had seen this might happen so was heading right, to not be directly above my belayer. Great first pitch though, felt easier than Kinkyboots...
JoeCoxson 24 May Show βeta
βeta: No stake at the top, had to use one far to the (climbers) right
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No stake at the top, had to use one far to the (climbers) right
cpoad 31 Aug, 2018 Show βeta
βeta: The top third of the second pitch is scrambling over mud ledges that might give way and rocks that wobble without any decent gear. Strongly recomend putting a rope down from the stakes above before leading this, and others on this slab. Nice climbing on first and first 2/3rds of second pitch though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The top third of the second pitch is scrambling over mud ledges that might give way and rocks that wobble without any decent gear. Strongly recomend putting a rope down from the stakes above before leading this, and others on this slab. Nice climbing on first and first 2/3rds of second pitch though.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 15
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Midnight Cowboy

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Baggy Point)