Restricted Access
Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
A fine, fingery upper section that takes on the extremely blank-looking area of slab. Follow Twinkletoes to a ledge above its small left-facing corner. Head up left to the overlap below the blank sheet and a peg 2m above it. Difficult climbing past the peg to a finger slot is followed by more hard moves to another peg. One more fingery sequence moving out right and up leads to a good horizontal break. Move left and finish easily. © Rockfax
Peter Bull Jul/1985.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Ultimate E5 ticklist , South West in Extremis
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Baggy Point
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Depth Charge
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)