Rockfax Description
A technical single pitch that follows the tapering open groove right of the steep white stained wall. Start below the open groove. Climb the technical groove to a ledge and big flake. Finish up easier ground leftwards to a bolted abseil station. Abseil off. Grade increased as the original protection pegs are now absent. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
No pegs in place in route as of 17/05/16
M Jeffs, D Mortimer 1968.
Littlejohn South West Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , South West in Extremis
User | Date | Notes | ||
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flash635 | 25 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Agree with Rp20 on grading. Be warned - without a peg this route will almost certainly result in decking from a fall from the crux exiting the groove at the top (5b but very technical). And even with the peg it's possible to deck. I took a ground fall on this from the top moves in September 1982 (having led it previously). I ripped an RP2 from the upper groove (nut physically bent from impact) and then ripped the peg plus a Rock 1 backing it up before bouncing on the slab and hitting the deck facing out between the boulders next to my belayer. I was very lucky and managed to walk away, but still have minor lower left back/pelvis pain 38 years later. Still think its a great route though! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Agree with Rp20 on grading. Be warned - without a peg this route will almost certainly result in decking from a fall from the crux exiting the groove at the top (5b but very technical). And even with the peg it's possible to deck. I took a ground fall on this from the top moves in September 1982 (having led it previously). I ripped an RP2 from the upper groove (nut physically bent from impact) and then ripped the peg plus a Rock 1 backing it up before bouncing on the slab and hitting the deck facing out between the boulders next to my belayer. I was very lucky and managed to walk away, but still have minor lower left back/pelvis pain 38 years later. Still think its a great route though! |
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Rp20 | 28 May, 2019 |
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βeta: 5b/low5c moves. E3 now missing pegs. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 5b/low5c moves. E3 now missing pegs. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area))