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27m.

Rockfax Description
A popular little climb that follows the tapering open groove right of the steep white-stained wall. Start below the open groove.
Climb the technical groove, past 2 pegs, to a ledge and big flake. Finish up easier ground to a belay at the large fir tree. Abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
No pegs in place in route as of 17/05/16

M Jeffs, D Mortimer 1968.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
flash635 25 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Rp20 on grading. Be warned - without a peg this route will almost certainly result in decking from a fall from the crux exiting the groove at the top (5b but very technical). And even with the peg it's possible to deck. I took a ground fall on this from the top moves in September 1982 (having led it previously). I ripped an RP2 from the upper groove (nut physically bent from impact) and then ripped the peg plus a Rock 1 backing it up before bouncing on the slab and hitting the deck facing out between the boulders next to my belayer. I was very lucky and managed to walk away, but still have minor lower left back/pelvis pain 38 years later. Still think its a great route though!
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βeta: Agree with Rp20 on grading. Be warned - without a peg this route will almost certainly result in decking from a fall from the crux exiting the groove at the top (5b but very technical). And even with the peg it's possible to deck. I took a ground fall on this from the top moves in September 1982 (having led it previously). I ripped an RP2 from the upper groove (nut physically bent from impact) and then ripped the peg plus a Rock 1 backing it up before bouncing on the slab and hitting the deck facing out between the boulders next to my belayer. I was very lucky and managed to walk away, but still have minor lower left back/pelvis pain 38 years later. Still think its a great route though!
Rp20 28 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 5b/low5c moves. E3 now missing pegs.
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βeta: 5b/low5c moves. E3 now missing pegs.

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High E3
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
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Votes cast 49
High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 49
Votes cast 45
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Earl of Perth/Oblivion Hybrid

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))