40m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Enjoyable, clean climbing on a strong line make this an Avon favourite, though now well-glossed. Recently upgraded to better reflect the difficulty of the hard climbing. Start at the base of the arete.
1) 13m. Take the arete to a tree belay.
2) 13m. Continue up the groove and arete to a ledge.
3) 4a, 14m. The ledge above is very awkward and slippery to stand on! Thankfully the rest of the pitch to gain Lunchtime Ledge is far easier. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Avon Gorge non-Extremes , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon sub-VSes , South West Climbs for a Northerner , Avon gorge road to ruins HVS , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , The Avon Gorge Severe Challenge , Best of the Gorge , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ewan_Craig 1 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Top route to go for in the damp. Stays drier.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top route to go for in the damp. Stays drier.
Yiheng.Yu 26 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The mantle felt much sketchy when accidentally combining p2 & p3 into one
Show beta
βeta: The mantle felt much sketchy when accidentally combining p2 & p3 into one
Dunthemall 11 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Also the LH slab variation to the mantleshelf
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Also the LH slab variation to the mantleshelf

Logged Ascents

1876 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Main Area)

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 121
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 101
Votes cast 99
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Madiba

Grade: S 3b ***
(Black Rocks (Eastville Park))

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