Climb the obvious crack on the left hand side of the slab. Sustained climbing, fairly technical for 4c. Well protected, but placing gear may be awkward.
If abseiling in from the top, anchored to the tree, take care as the rope can easily jam in the slots at the edge and prevent pulling through. Better to extend your master point to the edge if possible.

Ticklists

The Great Gumclub Ticklist , EUMC - Must do climbs , Carrotte's summer sends , The Unattainable SUMC Ticklist , Lowland Outcrops *** (Trad and Sport)

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User Date Notes
Nick_Scots 10 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: About 1m left of the top out, about 1m below the grassy ledge, some loose blocks the size of trainers.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: About 1m left of the top out, about 1m below the grassy ledge, some loose blocks the size of trainers.
PappaDaq 10 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Really nice crack running up a steep slab. Ashame that it doesn’t run all the way to the top. Ended up multi-pitching it with a 2nd pitch (5metree) up the broken corner straight above it. Would recommend doing that if you’re looking for additional climbing. I’d put it around low end of severe.
Show beta
βeta: Really nice crack running up a steep slab. Ashame that it doesn’t run all the way to the top. Ended up multi-pitching it with a 2nd pitch (5metree) up the broken corner straight above it. Would recommend doing that if you’re looking for additional climbing. I’d put it around low end of severe.
ShannonSviolin 28 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent well-protected route.
Show beta
βeta: Excellent well-protected route.
drconline 16 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: We've done this route twice and both times when abseiling in with a double rope anchored off the tree, the rope has jammed and not pulled through properly. In future I would extend a master point to the edge and put the rope through that to minimise friction and the opportunity for jamming.
Show beta
βeta: We've done this route twice and both times when abseiling in with a double rope anchored off the tree, the rope has jammed and not pulled through properly. In future I would extend a master point to the edge and put the rope through that to minimise friction and the opportunity for jamming.
Mike-W-99 2 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Big, well chalked up hold pulled off in the deeper crack. Suspect no change in grade but beware as there are others that don’t look well attached either.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big, well chalked up hold pulled off in the deeper crack. Suspect no change in grade but beware as there are others that don’t look well attached either.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 102
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 95
Votes cast 97
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Red Lead

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Auchinstarry Quarry)

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