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18m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb route featuring two contrasting pitches; the first is technical, and the second steep. Start beneath the slim, smooth corner/groove.
1) 6a,13m. Climb the immaculate, smooth groove past two bolts and swing left at its top to a bolt belay on a sloping ledge.
2) 5b, 15m. Move up left from the ledge, then traverse steeply rightwards to find and use a borehole on a sloping shelf to access the base of a short steep corner. Climb this to the vegetated slope above. Bolt belay in an outcrop over to the right. Abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
** RECENTLY RETRO-BOLTED ** Now ~6C with extra bolt at start and before move left to belay. There is also the option of a direct finish at a similar grade, follow the line of bolts above.

FFA. Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner 31.5.76. Previously aided. 31/May/1976.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK smearing corners, The Devonman Cometh- Living in Exeter Top200.

Feedback

User Date Notes
The Jazz Butcher 29 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This is a really good route, with a very technical groove on the first pitch. The topout is very exciting and you will be fighting up loose rock and vegetation to an old bolt belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a really good route, with a very technical groove on the first pitch. The topout is very exciting and you will be fighting up loose rock and vegetation to an old bolt belay.
Paz 8 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Those who have no wish to topout for the full historic tick might like to know that the lower off for pitch 2 of this and More Steam Bigger Women is in the wrong place on the photo topo (i.e. it's in the orangey stuff right by you, there isn't one above in the white stuff).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Those who have no wish to topout for the full historic tick might like to know that the lower off for pitch 2 of this and More Steam Bigger Women is in the wrong place on the photo topo (i.e. it's in the orangey stuff right by you, there isn't one above in the white stuff).

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 26
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Pressure Drop

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Spekes Mill Mouth and Brownspear Point)