UKH

100m, 2 pitches. The sensational prow goes free.
1. 30m. 5c. follow a vague corner leftwards up the lower wall, stepping left to avoid the band of roofs, to a grass ledge. Nut and peg belay.
2. 60m. 6c. traverse right along the large break for 8m before launching up through the roof on large but loose holds. A succession of hollow columns now leads up the wall to the left of the old aid bolts, climbed via fingertip laybacking and long reaches off undercuts (in-situ RURP, small wires), to a hard move right to gain the undercut flake and bolts of the old belay (~f7c+). Easier but unprotected ground leads to the top. Belay on trig point (well back, additional rope required)

James McHaffie, Ben Bransby Jun/2002.

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Hardest Scottish Trad

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Route of Interest
The Realm

Grade: E8 6c ***
(Creag Mo)

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