100m, 2 pitches. The sensational prow goes free.
1. 30m. 5c. follow a vague corner leftwards up the lower wall, stepping left to avoid the band of roofs, to a grass ledge. Nut and peg belay.
2. 60m. 6c. traverse right along the large break for 8m before launching up through the roof on large but loose holds. A succession of hollow columns now leads up the wall to the left of the old aid bolts, climbed via fingertip laybacking and long reaches off undercuts (in-situ RURP, small wires), to a hard move right to gain the undercut flake and bolts of the old belay (~f7c+). Easier but unprotected ground leads to the top. Belay on trig point (well back, additional rope required)

James McHaffie, Ben Bransby Jun/2002.


Hardest Scottish Trad


There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

1 users have logged this

Guidebooks for An Sgurr

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 4 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High E9
Mid E9
Low E9
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Route of Interest
The Realm

Grade: E8 6c ***
(Creag Mo)

Loading Notifications...